Upper Chitral, Pakistan. Sor Laspur Valley upper Chitral, Pakistan

HISTORY

The ruling family of Chitral traces its decent from Baba Ayub, a disciple of the saint, Kamal Shah Shams ud-din Tabrizi, who settled in the village of Lon and Gokher. According to family tradition, Ayub was a son of Fareidun Hussein, tenth son of Shah Abu’l Ghazi Sultan Husain Baiqara Bahadur Khan, Padshah of Khorasan. However, Persian, Central Asian or Mughal sources are silent on such a connection.

Baba Ayub, is said to have arrived in Herat from Khorasan, married the daughter of the ruler, a supposed descendant of Alexander the Great. The grandson of this marriage founded the present dynasty. Accordingly, the family actually owes their fortunes to Sangan Ali, sometime Minister to Shah Rais, ruler of Chitral during the sixteenth century. His sons seized power following his death in 1570, establishing a new ruling dynasty over the state. The present ruling dynasty descends from the second of these two sons.

The period between Sangan ‘Ali’s accession to power and modern times is clouded by fratricidal warfare, contests for power with the former Raisiya dynasty, the Kushwaqte family and endless disputes with neighbouring rulers. So much so that it is nearly impossible to date the reigns or lives of many of the rulers. Only during the middle of the nineteenth century, when permanent Dogra rule was established in Kashmir. European travellers, administrators and scholars began to enter the area and take an interest in its history, and gradually the history of the country, its people, languages and culture, began to emerge from the mists of time. However, this task is far from complete and it will be many years before Chitral yields up all its mysteries and secrets.
Shah Afzal II, who ruled from the middle of the nineteenth century until its end, fought against the Afghans in support of his allies the rulers of  Badakshan. He also fought against the Dogras and against his Kushwaqte kinsmen, but later switched sides and concluded treaty relations with the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir. Thereafter becoming a vassal or protectorate of Kashmir, in return for an annual subsidy to pay for troops and the supervision of the Afghan border.

Aman ul-Mulk, Afzal’s younger son, succeeded his brother in 1857. After a brief dispute with Kashmir, in which he laid siege to the garrison at Gilgit and briefly held the Puniyal valley, he accepted a new treaty with the Maharaja in 1877. After a relatively long reign, he died peacefully in 1892.

Aman’s younger son, Afzal ul-Mulk, proclaimed himself ruler during the absence of his elder brother. He then proceeded to eliminate several of his brothers, potential contenders to his throne. This initiated a war of succession, which lasted three years. Afzal ul-Mulk was killed by his uncle, Sher Afzal, the stormy petrel of Chitral and a long-time thorn in his father’s side. He held Chitral for under a month, then fled into Afghan territory.

Nizam ul-Mulk, Afzal ul-Mulk’s eldest brother and the rightful heir, then succeeded in December of the same year. At about that time, Chitral came under the British sphere of influence following the Durand Agreement, which delineated the border between Afghanistan and the Indian Empire. Nizam ul-Mulk’s possession in Kafiristan and the Kunar Valley were recognised as Afghan territory and ceded to the Amir. Within a year, Nizam was himself murdered by yet another ambitious younger brother, Amir ul-Mulk.

The approach of a strong military force composed of British and Kashmiri troops prompted Amir to flee with to his patron, the Khan of Jandul. The British and Kashmiris had decided to support the interests of Shuja ul-Mulk, the youngest legitimate son of Aman ul-Mulk, and the only one untainted by the recent spate of murder and intrigue. After entering Chitral and installing the young Mehtar, British and Kashmiri forces endured the famous defence against a seven-week siege by Sher Afzal and the Khan of Jandul. The British then captured Sher Afzal and Amir ul-Mulk, deporting them both to Madras.

Although Shuja ul-Mulk was now firmly established as ruler, the Kashmiris annexed Yasin, Kush, Ghizr and Ishkoman. Kashmiri suzerainty over Chitral ended in 1911, Chitral became a salute state in direct relations with the British. Mastuj, also removed from the Mehtar’s jurisdiction in 1895, was restored to him within two years. Shuja reigned for forty-one years, during which Chitral enjoyed an unprecedented period of internal peace. He was probably the first ruler to journey outside Chitral, visiting various parts of India and meeting a number of fellow rulers. He supported the British during the Third Afghan War in 1919, during which four of his sons served in several actions guarding the border against invasion.

Nasir ul-Mulk, succeeded his father in 1936. He was the first ruler of his line to receive a modern education, becoming a noted poet and scholar in his own right. He took a deep interest in military, political and diplomatic affairs, and spent much of his time on improving the administration. Dying without a surviving male heir in 1943, his successor was his younger brother, Muzaffar ul-Mulk. Also a man with a military disposition, his reign witnessed the tumultuous events surrounding the transfer of power in 1947. His prompt action in sending in his own Body Guard to Gilgit was instrumental in securing the territory for Pakistan.

The unexpected early death of Muzaffar ul-Mulk saw the succession pass to his relatively inexperienced eldest son, Saif ur-Rahman, in 1948. During a time of considerable tension, his secret marriage to the daughter of the Nawab of Dir, inflamed passions and threatened armed conflict between the various
interested parties. The government of Pakistan intervened, persuading him to move to Peshawar, where he remained in exile for six years. They appointed a board of administration composed of Chitrali and Pakistani officials to govern the state in his absence. He died tragically in a plane crash while returning to resume charge of Chitral in 1954.

Saif ul-Mulk succeeded his father at the tender age of four. He reigned under a Council of Regency for the next twelve years, during which Pakistani authority gradually increased over the state. Although installed as a constitutional ruler when he came of age in 1966, he did not enjoy his new status very long. Chitral was absorbed and fully integrated into the Republic of Pakistan by Prime Minister Bhutto in 1971. In order to reduce the popular Mehtar’s influence, he, like so many other princes in neighbouring India, was "invited" to represent his country abroad. He served in various diplomatic posts and retired from the service as Consul-General in Hong Kong in 1989.

Fateh ul-Mulk, was formally installed as Mehtar at Chitral Fort, following the sudden death of his father from heart failure in October 2011.

STYLES & TITLES:
The ruling prince: Faiz Gangvur Huzur-i-Walashan Ala Hazrat Mehtar Chitral, i.e. The Abundance of Treasure, the Presence, of Exalted Rank and Dignity, His Highness the Mehtar of Chitral.
The consort of the ruling prince: (personal title and name) Khonza, with the style of Her Highness.
The Heir Apparent: Shahzada (personal title and name), Wali-Akht Sahib.
The Heir Presumptive: Shahzada (personal title and name), Tsik Mehtar.
The sons of the ruling prince, and male descendants in the male line of Mehtars Shuja ul-Mulk and Amir ul-Mulk: Shahzada (personal title and name)*.
The male descendants in the male line, of previous rulers: Mehtarjao (personal title and name).
The daughters of the ruling prince: Shahzadi (personal name).
The female descendants of the ruling prince, in the male line: (personal name) Khonza.
The wives of male members of the ruling family, and other female relatives: (personal name) Bibi.
* until the reign of Shuja ul-Mulk, this title was only borne by the Heir Apparent, all other sons being styled Mehtarjao. That prince extended the title to his male line descendants, and to those of his brother, Amir ul-Mulk.

SELECT GLOSSARY:
Ala Hazrat: ‘all highest’, or His Highness.
Asaqal: official responsible to the Ataliq for the administrations of storehouses.
Ataliq: the senior minister after the Wazir-i-Azam, in charge of the royal demesne, land records, warehouses, etc. Also the principal official or governor of a large valley or sub-district.
Baramosh: official in charge of state property, controlling of labour, and responsible to the Hakim.
Birmoghlasht: the summer capital, since the reign of Mehtar Shuja ul-Mulk.
Charvelu: the principal official controlling a large village or small district of hamlets.
Chitraro Noghor: Chitral (Royal) Fort.
Diwanbegi: Lord Treasurer.
Faiz-i-Ganjur: ‘abundance of treasure’.
Hakim: a term also used for minor governors or deputising governors.
Hakim Ala: ‘exalted governor’, a title conferred on the highest ranking hakim.
Huzur: ‘the presence’, a term used to describe a ruler of the highest rank and also offices and appointments close to him.
Khonsal: Judicial Council, the highest court in the state.
Khonza: the consort of the ruler.
Mahram: Chamberlain.
Malakandi: local term for the government Commissioner of Peshawar, superior of the ‘mulki’.
Mehtar: the title of the ruler.
Mehtarbak: the ancient title of the Heir Apparent, long disused.
Mehtari Bungala: ‘Mehtar’s Bungalow’, rest house occupied by the Mehtar during his progress through the state.
Mehtari Imam: Chief Priest of the Royal Mosque.
Mehtari Khatib: Chief Speaker of the Royal Mosque.
Mehtaridori: ‘Mehtar’s House’, a term used to describe any state building or property.
Mehtarjao: title enjoyed by the sons of former rulers and their male descendants in the male line.
Mir Shikar: Master of the Hunt.
Mizan-i-Shariat Sharia: Islamic Sharia Court, which usually pronounced or verified that decisions were in accordance with the tenets of Islam.
Mulki: the local term for the government Political Agent.
Noghor-i-Masjid: the Royal Mosque.
Noghor Shahi Qilla-i-Chitral: the modern designation for Chitral Fort.
Qazi: Judge of the Islamic Sharia Court, usually twenty-five in number.
Qazi Quzat: Chief Judge of the Islamic Sharia Court.
Sardar: title enjoyed by the Nizam ul-Mulk as Heir Apparent to his father.
Sadr-i-Khonsal: Presiding Judge, or President of the Judicial Council.
Sekartri: Secretary.
Sekartri Khazana: Treasury Secretary.
Sekartri Malia: official responsible to the Ataliq for the collection of tithes and taxes.
Sekartri Muhasiba: Accountant-General and Revenue Secretary.
Sekartri Talim: Education Secretary.
Shadar: nobleman or member of royal family who resides in the fort and acts as adviser to the ruler.
Shahzada: title enjoyed by the sons of the ruling prince.
Shahzadi: title enjoyed by the daughters of the ruling prince.
Shan: rank, power, authority; respect, or regard.
Sikatar: Secretary to the Mehtar, one of the most powerful offices of government.
Tsik Mehtar: title enjoyed by the Heir Presumptive to the Mehtar.
Wala: exalted, eminent, or respectable.
Walashan: ‘exalted in rank and dignity’.
Wali-Akht: a local corruption of Wali-Ahad, ‘successor by virtue of a covenant’ or Heir Apparent.
Wazir: minister of state
Wazir-i-Azam: ‘the great bearer of burdens (of the state)’, i.e. Supreme or Chief Minister, the principal official in charge of the government.
Wazir-i-Tijarat: Minister for Trade.
Yasowal: Principal Chamberlain.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Towering over the Chitral town is Birmoghlasht, rising to a height of 2743 meters (9,900 feet) and 15 km (9 miles) from Chitral. Here, at an altitude of 2743 meters (9,000 feet), is located the summer palace of the former mehtur of Chitral. Its balcony is decked with Ibex and snow leopard trophies, and the head of a mounted markhor. From the palace, you can get a good view of the river. The place also offers a spectacular view of Terich Mir rising above and the valleys sliding down. A narrow winding road leads to the fort; the distance is short enough to be covered by foot. If you are not in a mood of walking, you are advised to hire a local driver, for they have mastered the art of driving on the narrowest of roads at a reasonable speed. Do not forget to visit the mosque by the river. The mosque, called the Shahi Mosque of Chitral, was built by Mhetar Shuja-ul-Mulk about a century ago. It is a stylistic piece of architecture with its impressive inlays and decorations and its minarets and cupolas poised against a backdrop of a bleak, hilly landscape.
Visit the Kalash Valleys of Bumboret, Birir and Rambor, which are at a distance of 40 km, 34 km and 32 km respectively from Chitral. At Dubaj, all visitors have to pay a toll tax. The lifestyle of its people is a living image of what the European community once was in the medieval age. This may be because this pagan tribe was set apart from the world for centuries and had lost interaction with its inhabitants, thereby following their unique customs, culture, and religion since 400 BC. And till now, the history and background of this primitive tribe and its 3,000 people is still shrouded in mystery.
The Kalash share a legacy of being expert architects and skilled wood carvers. They amuse themselves by numerous festivals that are intricately related to dancing and music. Their music flows in a different strain when juxtaposed with Pakistani music. Women wear a long black gown embroidered around the hem and wrists. What most holds attention is their head dress. It is usually made of woolen black material and ornamented with pompoms or a large colored feather on the top; the hood is beautified with metal buttons, coins, red beads, white cowry shells, trinkets that fall on their back and similar objects set in rows. (For more information, see article on Kalash).
If you are a naturalist, Chitral Gol National Park is the place for you. Chitral Gol is in the north west of Chitral Town and is in the shape of a a huge mountain amphitheatre. It spreads over an area of 7,750 hectares and was established in 1984. The park has two hunting lodges, which were built by the mehturs. The best time to go there is from May to September. Lammergier vulture, Himalayan Griffon vulture, Golden eagle, Demosille crane, Peregrine falcon, Himalayan snow cock, Himalayan monal, Snow partridge and rock Partridge are the most common birds found in the park. The park is also the habitat of not more than 650 markhor goats (V). The Siberian ibex (V), the snow leopard (T), the Ladakh urial (Shapu) (T), the Tibetan Wolf (V), the Red fox (C), the Yellow throated martin (C), the Himalayan otter (V) and the black bear (T) can be found in small numbers.
Another attraction of the area is Garam Chashma (hot springs) in the north west of Chitral. At a height of 1,859 meters (6,100 feet) these gush out of the Hindu Kush mountains and are located at a distance of 45 kilometers (28 miles) from Chitral. The journey, undertaken in jeeps, takes 3 hours and goes along the Ladakh River. Halfway through the journey, there is the Shasha Pass, damp and lonely. Crossing it, the Ladakh and Shagor Rivers come into view, both flowing together into the Indus.
Visit the place in autumn and you will be amazed at the variety of colors. Swaying with the wind, poplar, willow and apricot trees fringe the river bank. Along with these are flowers with leaves of a golden hue. And when you see steam rising into the air, you are at the sight of Garam Chashma. Busy washing clothes, nomad women can be seen clustered around the hot springs. It is a popular belief that the sulphurous hot springs can cure spring diseases, headaches, gout and rheumatism. To facilitate bathing, "hamams" (baths) have been constructed in the vicinity of the springs. To use these, tourists have to pay Rs. 5.00 each. Shops have developed around the area, but not to a scale that makes it a bazaar. Things sold here are lanterns, blankets, sweaters and boots. The bulk of customers are the refugees who migrate from Afghanistan to Pakistan.
There are four famous lakes in Chitral; Shandur Lake, Karbaza lake Chatti Bai Lake and Chiyan Tar lake. The first two lakes still exist while the other two have dried up. Lake Shandur is a beautiful spot on the border of Laspur Valley. Lake Karbaza is at Broghail in Yarkhoon Valley. Lake Chatti Bai is also in Broghail, but as mentioned earlier, it has dried up. Lake Chiyan Tar is another dried up lake in Lutkoh at Dorah Pass. Hot springs of brackish water force out their way at various places in Chitral, such as Lutkoh, Ambore, Treech, Boni, Shah Jinnali, Yarkhoon and Sindoor. People visit these in great numbers for the cure of skin diseases and asthma.
Other tourist spots are Boroghil, Thoshi Game Resort, Shahgrom Terich and Durah Pass at a distance of 250 km, 18 km, 138 km and 120 km respectively from Chitral.

Madaklashti/Tajik

Madaklashti / Tajik
These came from Tajikistan and Badakhshan in 1700 AD and settled in Madaklasht village of Shishi Kuh valley. Their ancestor made weapons from iron and the ruler of Chitral invited them for this purpose. The speak Khowar and Persian and follow the customs and habits of the Khow people. However, some of their culture is still preserved and Daree, their language, is still spoken in Madaklasht. Thus, they have preserved their individuality while mixing with the Khow society.

Afghans

Afghans
The Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in 1979 forced the Afghans to take refuge in Chitral, Pakistan. Some of these Afghans are from Panjsher and Badakhshan and Persian is their lingua franca. Others belong to the Pashtu speaking belt of Nangarhar, Qunduz and Kunnar.

Khow

Khow
These account for 92% of the population of Chitral and are spread in many villages. Original khow are of Aryan ancestry. It is believed that they came from central Asia, Afghanistan and Kashmir. This dominant ethnic group is a heterogeneous tribe with an age-old class system. Basically, they are happy and contented people fond of music and hunting. Women observe pardah and are expert in making handicrafts.

Mukhbani or Yidgha

Mukhbani or Yidgha
This tribe came from Badakhshan and settled in the west of Chitral in Lutkoh Valley. Yidgha is their native tongue, and this is the only thing they have preserved in this area. For they have changed their habits and customs and merged themselves into the Khow social set up.